Well, i checked the charts last night, it read something similar to this, "YOUR LOCAL WILL BE PUMPING!!!". So im thinking "oh fuck, i've gotta work". So then im hoping its a hoax swell like every other one.
I get a message this morning saying "Big *****. King Corpse more out, wig central". So now im at work, not getting out of the place for another 7 hours, and its deadset pumptown, so all day at work im just trying not to think about the tubes that are are being driven through.
Finally i get home, jump on old faithful (pushbike), and head down to ******, in hope of there still being good waves. I get there, a slight cross-shore breeze is blowing, the tide has risen, and to put it bluntly, im devo.
Little nugget
Barnsey Scurrying across the rocks
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment